Um-um Good: Adeline Schwenderman and Badenzer Cheese

When Mrs. Adeline Schwenderman died in March 1935, it was thought to be an end of an era in cheese making. Few remember the name today that 80 years ago was as connected with cheese making in Kewaunee County as Trega Foods, once Krohn’s, is today.

 
Angeline Federspile was born in Thiensville in 1846. As a girl, she began making cheese and was the originator the Badenzer cheese, which it is assumed was named for Baden-Baden, Germany, birthplace of her husband Joseph. She made the cheese for Alpine Dairy, located in the basement of the Soucek building at what is now 112 Steele Street in Algoma.
 
The late Hank Englebert remembered Mrs. Schwenderman years after her death. Englebert described her basement operation saying there were curing shelves on all four walls. Badenzer loaves were 2” thick, 6” long and about 3 pounds. During the four month curing period, each loaf was turned over and washed. Marketing was not aggressive and the public could stop whenever convenient to purchase the cheese delicacy.
 
Englebert told the story about a day Angeline gave him a loaf of cheese. He tucked it under his arm and carried it on his meter reading duties, barely unable to wait the two hours for noon. Englebert didn’t keep the prized cheese for himself, but took it to the Stebbins Hotel where Mrs. Jack Slaby helped Hank treat his noon companions. At the appointed time, Mrs. Slaby walked out of the kitchen with the wonderful cheese properly sliced and ready to enjoy. The aroma - some said odor - was safeguarded under a glass dome, and Hank was able to pull off his surprise. His friends never smelled the precious cheese coming.

Hank also told a Depression era story when a railroad man often came to Algoma, trying to spend as much time as he could in the Soucek basement. He even tried to help. After so many visits, people got suspicious and felt he was after the recipe for use in the dining cars. Continuing to allow the man into the basement seemed dangerous, and he was denied further entrance.

 
At Mrs. Schwenderman’s death, her daughter Rose continued producing the cheese. Over 100 years after its introduction, Badenzer cheese is a part of Algoma's history. Its recipe remains a closely guarded secret.

Note: Photo is taken from Algoma Record Herald.